Ba Đình, Hanoi – In an effort to further expand
international tourism arrivals and lure the coveted demographics of foodie
bloggers, Instagram influencers and wellness gurus whose noses still smell like
Gwyneth Paltrow's bleached anus, Vietnam has announced that, starting immediately,
the spelling of bánh mì will be changed to báhn mì.
Phuong Ha, Vice Director of the Tourists' Wants and Tourist
Support (TWATS), spoke to The Durian
by phone from Banh Mi Ngon in Hoi An, one of the country’s most well-known
sandwich shops.
“I’m here explaining to the owner that they’ll have to
change their sign and all of their menus,” she said.
“Of course, this will be quite the undertaking for the
countless báhn mì vendors nationwide and surely reckons a mighty meaty blow
to our collective linguistic heritage, but it must be done - without drawing
the anti-vaxxer, Mumsnet demographic out of their chia seed encrusted suburban
lairs, we’re way back down the tourism value chain, stuck with pasty
teenyboppers who think sporting a bandana and inadvertently creating a sex-tape
in a shared dorm with CCTV constitute a spiritual awakening.”
“We’ve already endured so, so many bloggers trying to blag
free accommodation in an Old Quarter hostel,” she added, “Just for once it’d be
nice to have someone who wanted to pay for things, even if they want to
speak to the manager about how fair trade the ice in their cocktail is or
whether the mattress is gluten-free.”
Ha shared that she and other TWATS officials have already
noticed an uptick in restaurants and bloggers overseas utilising the name báhn
mì, instead of bánh mì.
“At first we were very confused,” she went on.
“How could you confuse the German word for ‘train’ with the
Vietnamese word for ‘bread’? Some people didn’t even understand the concept of
the dish, let alone the spelling. There were restaurants serving bánh mì
bowls! There are even recipes for bánh mì tacos! Trời ơi!” she shouted with
a hearty laugh that masked the pain of bearing witness to her culture being
dismantled and bastardised by an endless horde of bearded, tattooed white men intent
on cooking on the internet.
“Of course, we’re very proud of our language – it’s an
indispensable part of our culture, albeit one that few visitors bother to
learn,” Ha says. “But then we realised that if foreigners piggybacking on our culinary culture couldn’t pronounce the names of our
food properly, then it wasn’t spreading a good image for Vietnam and we so
badly want foreign tourists to come experience our delicious cuisine and
world-class cable cars.”
After much internal debate, the TWATS association decided to
propose the spelling change to the central government, and the letter swap was
quickly approved.
Prominent American food blogger, part-time YouTuber and
full-time shelf-stacker Steve Hickory was ecstatic when he heard the news. “I’m
far too busy maintaining my YouTube channel to bother checking the correct
spelling of dishes from other countries, and I think my phone autocorrected
‘bánh’ to ‘báhn’ anyway,” he said in an Instagram direct message.
“For me, food is like, y’know, this kinda lens through which
we look into another culture, food is just so important to me, but content is
king these days – hustling, DM’ing hotels for free rooms and arguing online about
layers of cultural authenticity takes time,” continued the human equivalent of the juice
that leaks out of garbage bags.
“This will make it so much easier for bloggers like me to
mangle foreign names without being flamed on social media and I applaud Vietnam
for this ground-breaking move. I hope other countries follow suit – I was just
in Mexico and couldn’t spell chilaquiles for the life of me. Like and
subscribe!”
At this point it is unclear whether the name change will be
enforced for Vietnam’s rich array of lesser-known bánh dishes, including bánh
đúc, bánh bao or bánh căn. We might’ve even broken the new rule just by
typing that sentence, but thankfully The
Durian has a watertight legal team of specially trained pigs who’ve
repeatedly demonstrated their ability to devour a jury faster than any judge
can sentence us.
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